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Saturday—lots of walking. Stamba.
Lunch with Mike at Stamba. Weather beautiful.

On my way to meet Mike. Passed the Tbilisi Concert Hall, a round glass building completed in 1971. Statue is a bronze monument, Muse. The spherical concert hall is located in the central part of the city. The Muse bronze statue was created by the sculpture artist Merab Berdzenishvili also in 1971. 



Stamba—hotel, bookstore, gift shop and restaurant. A very unique place. I think hotel is 5-star, bookstore has a large(ish) English section, restaurant was delicious and very nice and gift shop carries only items made in Georgia. Met Mike for lunch here on Saturday. Bought a couple of gifts and two books, John Grisham’s, The Broker and Katie Bishop’s, The Girls of Summer. I need easy reading. I have been surrounded for weeks by people speaking a very difficult language, in a city/country I know very little about and a history and culture dating back to mid-6th or early-5th millennia BC. Cut me a break, I need some easy reading! ; )
Walk back to the apartment after lunch and time with Mike. Lovely glass of wine—Saperavi qvevri, passed this shop with Talbots, J Crew and Old Navy goods (didn’t go in) it struck me as funny to see here, and yet another park close to my apartment with yet another larger than life Soviet era statue.



I like these Soviet era monuments. So big and imposing as I guess they were supposed to be. Nice to see (and photograph for me—hope I am not being too politically incorrect here) all around the city. Not every monument built in Soviet Georgia was overtly political and some succeed in shaking off/surpassing former associations including (but not limited to) the Monument to Saint Nino (the Enlightener of Georgia), the Chronicles of Georgia memorial complex—both designed by Zurab Tsereteli. And, then there’s Kartlis Deda, the statue of Mother Georgia—my favorite, an enduring symbol of nationhood with or without the context of her socialist sisters. I’m not sure about all of the monuments, but I think any Soviet-era monuments that can’t be rehabilitated as national symbols now (and rightly so) face demolition, obscurity and decay. Again, I hope I am not being politically incorrect here.
PS I know I need more pictures of Mike—he doesn’t like his picture taken. ☹️
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Spent the last few days wondering around—Dry bridge; Georgian/ French bakery and Mtatsminda Park are the highlights.
The Dry Bridge is a decent swap market meets flea market. It’s big. There is art, Soviet collectibles—pins, medals, coins, etc., see my purchases below and all sorts of random stuff being sold here. While the weather is good, this is a very fun way to spend an afternoon.




Matasse 1882 – la Desserte Royal Georgien
An exquisite little gem of a coffee shop and French patisserie in Old Town.
Very small, only four or five seats inside and five or six seats out on the pavement. The ambience, interior setting, cups and saucers, cakes, cookies and honey . . . were beautiful and the macaroons and coffee absolutely delicious! I had a latte and mandarin, cream filled macaroon. I may need to go back. Yum!





Mtatsminda Park is a park and amusement facility located atop Mount Mtatsminda overlooking all of Tbilisi. The views are fantastic. It is the highest point in Tbilisi and located on more than 100 hectares/250 acres—in the park is the tv tower and ferris wheel often seen in the pictures taken from my apartment’s balcony. The park has a ~100 year history. You can hike up to the park, take the funicular or a brand new/just opened cable car. I took the funicular and cable car. I went up via the cable car, but accidentally took the funicular down (it goes down to a different location from the cable car 🤦♀️). So, I took the funicular back up and the cable car back down to my original starting point. I needed to be at the cable car entrance location/Rustavelli Metro Station to meet Mike for dinner.
Cable car up,



In the park,



Funicular and cable car to get me back to the correct location on Rustavelli,




Statue of Shota Rustaveli at the Rustavelli Metro Station. Rustavelli was a medieval Georgian poet. He is considered to be the pre-eminent poet of the Georgian Golden Age (who knew?) and one of the greatest contributors to Georgian literature. Rustaveli was the author of The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, a Georgian national epic poem (I, of course, had never heard of this poem until Mike moved here). This is where I met Mike—we went to Sofia Melnikova’s for dinner, Sofia’s is kind of our go-to dinner spot—outdoor dining, casual, cats. PS I did go to the sulfur baths again too.
PPS I’ve been here so long that I also have to do normal, everyday stuff too. I have to grocery shop, vacuum, pay bills, emails, laundry, buy incidentals . . . I even got my hair trimmed.
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Weekend in Borjomi with Mike and Evan. Everything perfect, including the weather.
Borjomi is a hydrothermal health spa resort in the southern region of Samskhe-Javakheti in Georgia. This picturesque valley of ~10,000 residents lies within the Agura River gorge at an altitude of 800 meters/2624 feet. Borjomi has an international reputation for its geothermal spring mineral water resources.
Downtown Borjomi is split in two by the Mtkvari River, the same river that divides Tbilisi.
Golden Tulip Hotel—our fabulous stay Saturday evening—we enjoyed their spa facilities on Saturday and Sunday—jacuzzi, sauna and steam room. We also, sipped from the original Borjomi mineral spring. Rode the Borjomi cable car up to the plateau. Admired the 19th century architecture in old town. Lunched at Cafe Iggy and Inka Cafe—both absolutely delicious. Both cafes had a relaxed vibe and simple but delicious menus. At Cafe Iggy, Mike had the Borjomi trout baked in grape vine leaves with pomegranate sauce—again, absolutely delicious! Had appetizers on Saturday evening at the Crowne Plaza Borjomi. And walked for a few hours on Sunday seeing the Romanov palace (built as a summer mansion), making it to the entrance of the Borjomi National Park.

Our hotel, the beautiful Golden Tulip Hotel in Borjomi. Can’t recommend highly enough! 















This Soviet-era hammer and sickle monument is located in the centre of new Borjomi on the
former City Hall building.Most well known Georgian bottled water (at least to me 😉): Borjomi, naturally carbonated mineral water, I think it has a slightly salty taste and LOTS of bubbles. Bakuriani, a natural mineral spring water—no bubbles, no salty taste. I drink Bakuriani the most. Both from the springs of the Borjomi Valley, nestled in the Borjomi Kharagauli National Park. Nabeghlavi, initially discovered in 1905 in Guria, the spring caught attention due to its unique taste and therapeutic qualities. And Sairme, a naturally carbonated mineral water, originates from the springs in the Imereti region of Georgia—they say, the healing waters of the Meskheti Range.
A wonderful weekend. It was nice to be outside the city for a couple of days.
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Tbilisi Chamber Music 18th Festival.
Brahms and Chausson to soothe my heavy heart—it was a long day. Performance was fantastic.



Next stop Borjomi. This weekend with Mike. I’ll post again on Sunday evening. Talk to you soon.
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To the Caucasus mountains and back—Gudauri and Kazbegi. It was so cold!

Our meeting spot. Avlarbia Square and metro station 

Zhinvali Reservoir—two pictures above. Zhinvali Reservoir is an artificial lake located on the river Aragvi, about 70 kilometers/40 miles from Tbilisi on Georgian Military Road. The reservoir plays a crucial role in the supply of water for Tbilisi.






Traveling further along the Georgian Military Road, which connects Tbilisi and Kazbegi, you come across the Ananuri fortress, nestled in the heart of Georgia.
If you’re a fan of history and culture, then you definitely shouldn’t miss visiting this fortress. This beautiful and captivating site is a gem of Georgian architecture located in a very beautiful gorge of the river Aragvi, that will leave you awestruck. It is still possible to see the Church of the Savior with its ancient frescos. I also captured goats crossing the road but, I couldn’t get my phone ready soon enough to catch the shepherd—cars screeching to a halt, dogs barking like crazy. Hey, goat crossing.
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The parts the Caucasus mountain range in Russia are known as the North Caucasus and the countries of Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia, are referred to collectively as the South Caucasus.
Mount Kazbek or Mount Kazbegi is a dormant stratovolcano and one of the major mountains of the Caucasus, located in Georgia, just south of the border with Russia. We were really close to Russia; kinda scary to think about.
Gergeti Trinity Church is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Stepantsminda. The church is at an elevation of 2,170 metres (7,120 ft), under Mount Kazbek. I could hardly breath when I reached the church.





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Gudauri is a ski resort located on the south-facing plateau of The Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in Georgia. The resort is situated in the Kazbegi Municipality, also along the Georgian Military Road at an elevation of 2,200 meters above sea level and just below Mount Kazbegi.
Russian Georgian Friendship Monument (sounds like an oxymoron) is near the city of Gudauri. The view is breathtaking. A lot of opportunities to take pictures. A stopover place between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. It was cold today and VERY windy.





The Russian Georgia Friendship Monument serves as a historical marker, reflecting a complex past and the cultural ties between Georgia and Russia. While the relations between the two countries have experienced significant challenges, the monument remains a point of interest for those seeking to understand the region’s history and appreciate its natural beauty. The monument was erected in 1983 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk signed in 1783 between the Russian Empire and the Kingdom of Georgia.
PS The Georgian Military Road also known as Mtskheta–Stepantsminda-Larsi (Georgia–Russia border) is a road of international importance within the Georgian road network and runs from Mtskheta to the border with Russia near Stepantsminda, 139 kilometres/86 miles. After crossing the Georgian-Russian border the highway continues as A161 to Vladikavkaz, the capital of Russia’s North Ossetia federal republic

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Dinner with Mike and Evan. Moseying around.
Dinner with Mike and Evan Friday early evening at 2 Tons restaurant and brewery. Nice place, good beer. Ample kitchen and decent service. Friendly staff and fun vibe. We sat outside. No cha cha though—the boys were mildly disappointed. We had the delicious mushroom khinkali, Georgian salad and mtsvadi—Georgia’s version of BBQ chicken.



Guard street dog. Claiming his territory. 😉 And our mushroom khinkali. I think they lay the mushroom khinkali on its side sometimes so they can distinguish it from the different kinds of khinkali. FYI: Khinkali is always boiled—not steamed or fried.
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My lunch today. Sweet potatoes with Georgian cheese and cranberries. Delicious! I love sweet potatoes. I know most of my blog posts are about eating, but I don’t think I have gained any weight . . . The food is decently healthy and they don’t serve large proportions EXCEPT with the khachapuri. And, I do limit my khachapuri to once a week in a smallish size.
Moseying around.

President’s house. The current president is Salome Zourabichvili. 
Freedom Square or Liberty Square is located in the center of Tbilisi at the eastern end of Rustaveli Avenue.
BTW, it is really a circle.
My attempt at art. On Saturday we fall back one hour at home. So, starting Sunday, I will be nine hours ahead of you.
Talk soon. xoxo, —nancy
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Food, food and more food. Last day with Lindsay and Sam.
Spent most of the day with #culinarybackstreets. Our walk leader was Maka Shengelia—she was terrific. Maka, I’m sorry I didn’t post from Daphna—with the delicious khinkali or our wine tasting at #vinoground. Food and libations delectable!
We started the morning with tea and puri (bread). I think it was Imeretian khachapuri (round with cheese only on the inside). We ate so much that by the end of the day I kinda forgot exactly what we had eaten. Sorry, no pictures—we were too hungry.
After tea, we walked around, stopped for shotis puri (boat shaped, no cheese) and were able to catch the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater clock tower show at 12/noon.



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Lunch at Cafe Leila. Pkhali. Kinda like vegetable pates—beet, carrot, spinach and eggplant. Served with mchadi (corn bread) to slather the pkhali on and cheese. Cheeses were sulguni, smoked sulguni and a Georgian (type of) cottage cheese. Also in our gobi (special wooden bowl for sharing) was pickled jonjoli (I think this is what she called it). Jonjoli is considered a delicacy amongst Georgian’s variety of pickled shoots from a bush (again, I think she call it a jonjoli bush). All topped with their beloved pepper and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. Yum! Pass the pkhali, please.


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Pictured here with some of our best friend after lunch. Supra at Sophia Melnikova’s Fantistic Dougan. Shkmeruli, chicken in a garlic milk sauce. We all loved it, including the cats.




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Lindsay and Sam with Mother Georgia. ____________________________________________________________________________
Last evening with Lindsay and Sam.

Selfie. Last evening with Lindsay and Sam. Taken by Mike from the balcony of my apartment. I’ll post again in a few days. Good night.
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Sulfur bath & spa and cooking class,
From my morning walk. Another beautiful day and everyone is taking advantage of it, even the street dog. Waiting for the bus—patiently. FYI: I have started my Vake Park morning regimen. Wish me luck.


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Chreli Abano Sulfur Bath & Spa. So therapeutic and relaxing! Sulphur baths are a thing in Tbilisi. Tbilisi means warm place/location, a fitting name as there are numerous hot sulphur springs running beneath the city. The Sulphur bathhouses are in an area called Abanotubani. Brick domes with little brick chimney-type vents crown the bathhouses that remain of the 65 or so that operated during the days of the Silk Road. There are public and private bathhouses. Chreli Abano is a private bathhouse. I enjoyed it!



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We also took a khachapuri and khinkali cooking class today. We did great—none of our khinkali leaked and our megruli khachapuri was really good! Both came out terrific. Looked beautiful and they were delicious!




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The last few days. Plus the big election this past Saturday.


Lindsay and her friend, Sam, arrived just after 3AM this morning. After a brief nap, we were off sightseeing—and here we are.


Street dog and love locks and street dog and door.



Sulfur Baths and Spas. I think we are going to Chreli Abano tomorrow morning.



Art: @goshaart and the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater.
Gosha Art, making Tbilisi brighter every day If you go to Georgia’s capital, you’ve seen @goshaart’s works. The goshaart trademark are cats, which are included in a lot of his art pieces. And this year, I am going to try to catch a performance of The Autumn of my Springtime at the Gabriadze, hopefully in early November. Last year I saw Ramona.
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On Saturday my building was a polling site. I wish them good luck. As it turns out, luck was not on our side. With more than 99% of precincts counted, official results from the Central Election Commission give the ruling Georgian Dream party a 54.23% lead. The Georgian Dream celebrates the victory. The opposition denies the legitimacy of the elections.


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And now a week or two into my Tbilisi time, I have decided on my November exercise routine. Vake Park. Down 75 steps, walk for 30 minutes and then up 75 steps. Do you think I can do it? ; )

A beautiful well kept park that allows you to seemingly escape the city. Endless Autumn views make Vake Park a
must see for anyone wanting to leave the city traffic and noise behind but not really leave the city. And only a ten minute walk from the apartment. The park was opened in 1946 and is located in the Vake district (my neighborhood) of Tbilisi at the western end of Chavchavadze Avenue (say that three times!!). A World War II memorial sits at the top of the hill in the park. -
Dinner with Mike,

Dinner with Mike at Veriko restaurant. Typical Georgian cuisine. Delicious. 
We ate outside. Weather terrific. 


Best chicken noodle soup in Tbilisi. And a delicious Georgian salad.


Walked all over today. Saw a few street dogs basking in the sun. ☀️
Ok, since I will be in Tbilisi with Mike for the next few weeks, I will only be posting every few days. Really, how many pictures of Mike and me can you take? ; )
Political note below — mostly taken from the internet. Streets in Mike’s neighborhood, Vera, by the Parliament building were gridlocked this evening. My neighborhood, Vake, did not feel the gridlock:
Upcoming elections on October 26 present a crucial opportunity for Georgian voters to shape their political future.
Georgia is facing an unprecedented challenge which could alter the country’s EU trajectory. The country’s European future is under threat from the current government, led by the Georgian Dream party, which manipulates public opinion with pro-Russian narratives in hopes of sabotaging Georgia’s European aspirations.
In the process, it purposefully turns a blind-eye to the international financial support provided by the United States and the European Union over the past three decades.
After months of protests by pro-European Georgians who aspire to see their country follow its EU path, the October 26 parliamentary elections represent a last chance to reverse this dangerous rapprochement with Russia.The outcome of this vote will determine whether Georgia retains its EU candidate status and unlocks financial assistance from the EU and the US. Otherwise, the EU enlargement train, which includes Moldova and Ukraine, will depart without Georgia.